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Tuesday, November 04, 2025

Long Winding Road Back to Queenstown

I've been looking forward to coffee and scones at the hotel, but if they still serve them, they are not ready at 7:30 when breakfast starts.

I am able to achieve maximum efficiency when repacking. This was only an overnight trip, but my bags have never looked better. 

I begin up the hill. I always remember how difficult the climbs were and I always think they will be easier this time. I am well rested, I am starting half way up and I am in super shape. I get a tail wind up the steep part and I make the summit without stopping. 

I am dreading the descent. I should have replaced brake pads yesterday. I stop at a turn out 2.5 km down when I smell something burning and hope it's not my pads. I let them cool and then discover the steep part is over. I had planned on riding on the road to Arrowtown and then Queenstown as I'll get enough gravel tomorrow. But the road is busy so when my Garmin directs me onto a gravel road that I remember from the last trip I take its advice. I soon get to a trail closed sign. I'm in New Zealand and most laws are just suggestions. A couple of runners emerge and I ask if the trail is actually open. They tell me the sign is for 4x4 vehicles. In case the sign is too small, it reads "No pedestrian access".

Much of the trail is washed out and I have no traction on the loose rocks so I walk a couple hundred meters down hill. I follow the trails to Arrowtown and stop at a 4th wave coffee place. The barista is setting up cups with hand shaved coffee and then pouring water in circles with his douchebag pour over kettle. There is no filter so I ask if he's going to filter after steeping, otherwise it's cowboy coffee. He looks at me with disdain. "Filter? I am going to scrape." I am not there long enough to see the scraping tool. I believe my cup took 7 hours to brew. 

Before leaving, I look for a job. And then buy a pie on loan from heaven.

I bike with a couple of E-bikers from Seattle for a few km on my way to Queenstown. I come across 3 bikers who look like real cyclists. They're on muddy gravel bikes, but we're on a paved section. I have 25 extra pounds on the bike and I pass them going down hill and they seem a little offended. I either spend  a couple of hours riding around in circles on the vast network of Queenstown area bike trails or I go exactly the correct way and it's just a really long ride. Should have stuck to the road. 

I check into my hotel (again). They're not as nice when you arrive to check in on a bike vs. being the guy who's already checked in and goes out for bike rides. They don't want to let me roll my bike into the room. But this is New Zealand. Laws are just suggestions. 

I eat a leftover pie from heaven, pack up my dirty clothes and catch the water taxi. I attempt to do laundry at the closest laundromat [Read: near my bar so I can have a pint while I wait]. It's attached to a hostel and reception is supposed to have change. I see a bit of an altercation in the lobby and surmise this will take a while. I had a problem at this laundromat two years ago--the dryers weren't working and I had to walk to the next closest laundromat with wet clothes. I walk to the next closest laundromat, which is next to the library. I catch up on blogging on a real computer! 

I take a walk through Queenstown gardens. I've biked through a few times, but this is my first stroll in well over 10 years.

I find myself parched and remember that they have water on tap at my regular. The staff has changed so they don't think I'm a beer groupie.

Strava says 35 miles and 2921 feet. Big day tomorrow. I shouldn't have too many more of these.


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