South of the South Tour Day 1: Queenstown to Te Anau

Alternative Title: Quest for water

My bags are overstuffed as  I am unsure of the availability of warer for the first 50 km. I decided to prehydrate.

"Of course you'd order a short black. Cyclists always order short blacks." He makes a pretty good espresso for someone who doesn't like making espresso. This place is like a barbershop. 

I was supposed to be boarding the TSS Earnslaw for a trip across the lake to Walters Peak Country Farm. 

That sailing is cancelled and I am instead allowed on the much smallér staff boat. There must be 50 people on the smaller boat and as far as I can tell, I am the only tourist.

I set off on the beginning of a long gravel ride. Everywhere is beautiful.

Where the road is in good shape, or looks like this.

Cows, sheep, and horses are my only company.

Where the road is in bad shape, it underwater. I consider putting my waterproof socks on to ride through. That seems like a tiwaster.me  I ride through and soak both feet.

The next crossing is even deeper. I walk through, again without waterproof socks. It is shockingly cold and the rear of my bike starts to drift away. Some all knowing cows stare at the stupid human and his bicycle.

I encounter 3 cyclists heading the other direction at Mavora Lakes. This is 50 km from where I got off the boat and where most people doing this trail stop for the night. I assume there will be drinkable water here. There is not. I brought 4 bottles and have 1 and a half left. 

I ride another 20 km and reach a junction. I hope there is something in Burwood, because I cannot pedal 45 more km with no water.

96 km in and I reach a sealed road. I'm getting ready to knock on the next door I see (there have been no doors for 100 km) when a "Cafe 500 m on left" sign comes into view. It's more of a coffee truck than a cafe and the woman inside says she has just closed, but I can buy cookies and drinks. She offers tap water from the hose but a couple of bottles of water seem safer. I drink one in seconds. I'm 20+ km from Te Anau and feeling good. 

Soon I am somehow out of water again. I am not worried. Only 10 km more.

First flat tire. My fingers are cold and there are bags in the way. 15 minutes later I'm on my way and so, so thirsty.

Flat white #4(?) and carrot cake and lots of water and I'm feeling better. I check into my hotel (which I spent way too little on), take a shower, and meet some Mauiians for dinner. I look crazy goofy after 9 hours of gravel roads. I feel a helmet strap on my chin and everything is vibrating.

Strava says 80 miles and 2732 feet.