I'm on a boat and I'm on a boat again

I wake up way too early and commence packing. Packing is boring and I eventually go back to sleep. I've got to make Manapouri by 10:30 to catch a boat and it doesn't look like much will be open if I get there too early. 

Not much in Te Anau is open either. I find the supermarket and buy breakfast/provisions and then find an open cafe.

I have a choice of riding 20 km to Manapouri on the road or 28 km off road on the Lake to Lake Trail. I choose the trail but quickly realize I've spent too much time in Te Anau and need to improvise something. At 10 km, I switch to the road. It's mostly flat or slightly downhill and I have a tail wind. I'm hitting 30 kmh. That sounds faster in km.

I had thought I could store my gear somewhere, but the Real NZ visitor center will be closed when my boat gets back. I change, consolidate bags, lock up the bike, talk to an old Australian man who offers to store my stuff in his car. I'm going to accept, but I have food and clothes and electronics that I'll need and they're not in the same bag.

On boat #1, I'm at a table with two girls wearing RealNZ name tags. They don't talk and as there's still wifi, I catch up on correspondences. Eventually another girl who seems to work there sits down and talks to them. She reeks of reefer, man. When we get off boat number one and onto busses everyone with RealNZ name tags (which is a bus full) gets onto the same bus. I gather it's the start of peak season and these are new employees...maybe on an introductory voyage. It's the only explanation I can think of and I'm too tired to ask. 

Back up a minute, at the start of boat ride #1, the captain says: To the red heads aboard, those who like things with motors, that's 2000 horse power...then something about how fast we're going but I'm not paying attention anymore because I'm trying to figure out if that's a red head stereotype I'm not familiar with. I haven't been around Kiwis enough because I've only been in touristy areas. Now guessing he said "gear heads".

And onto the bus: This is the first time I've felt crowded on this trip. The couple in front of me is coughing. There's no chance I'm not getting sick. I've wondered for years how they get buses on this road that does not connect to any other roads. And the answer is: They barge them in from Manapouri. Why there's a barge on Lake Manapouri that can move busses I don't know (probably related to this power plant), which is why the road exists. They move the busses around seasonally; they go to Queenstown in winter for use as ski shuttles. I talk to the German couple next to me, but my German is terrible and they're not terribly comfortable speaking English. The man is fascinated by Google maps, which I'm using to track our location even though I'm offline. He wants to know our elevation, but I can't seem to find it. I forget I have my Garmin in my pocket. They keep stopping the bus to look at the Sound or waterfalls, but the visibility is so poor it just looks like cloud. Also, I'm in cycling shoes and afraid to get to close to the edge. I take picture of people taking pictures.

Finally to boat number 3. I'm the last person off the bus because I'm carrying 4 bags and a water bottle and wearing cycling shoes. I find a seat on deck 2 next to a very quiet couple speaking English. If I haven't mentioned my Queenstown game yet: I listen to the loud Americans and guess where they're from. I tell them they must be Canadian because they're so quiet. Wrong: Portland. They say they're trying not to be loud Americans and everyone is asking them if they're Canadian. I tell them Kiwis do that because Americans won't be offended if you ask if they're Canadian, but the opposite is not true. They seem disappointed. I play my game with a girl I think is from California but it turns out she's from Hawaii. When I tell her she doesn't sound like she's from Hawaii she says she's really from the Mariana Islands and tries to speak without an accent. I talk to an Australian who's interested in my bike trip. He currently works for Yeti, previously worked for Patagonia...maybe Rip Curl before that. He seems to travel the earth surfing. I road for like 9 hours yesterday without seeing anyone and today there are a couple hundred people and they all want to talk.

I was not expecting much because I haven't seen the sun today. It almost pokes out a couple times. The ocean entrance (exit?) is the most amazing part. Seals (or are they sea lions?) populate the rocks, which shield most of the monster waves from tipping our boat over.

I try to take a photo facing the wind with my eyes open.

I have tons of pictures of waterfalls and cliffs and arms of sounds. Some day I'd like to see some blue sky in the background. It only rains 300 days a year here.

On bus #2, I'm fading and doze off and on. Nobody bothers getting off on any of the "view" stops. 

I'm the last person on boat #3 and there's not much room so I sit outside in a protected area. A Russian woman (who lives in Canada) lectures me about overdoing things and that my heart will only beat so many times. 

Back on land, one of the Americans I was talking to offers me a ride. I only have a km to go. Getting the bags on the bike is the hard part. I am bitten by unrelenting mosquitos for a quarter of an hour. I bike to my hotel, which has a lake view and I hope the sun is out tomorrow morning.

There's one restaurant open in Manapouri. I've made a reservation as the internet says it's mandatory. It's a strange restaurant in that there's a bar downstairs serving the same menu as the restaurant (reservation required) upstairs. The bar is loud and I've exceeded my limit of talking to people today so I go upstairs. But then I need to go back downstairs to order. Did I mention it's an old church?

I think about doing laundry but I've already exceeded my goal of staying up until 9 PM. I hear rain hitting the roof of my cabin and a chorus of birds.

Garmin says 17.2 miles and 571 feet of climbing. I'm either wiped out from yesterday or the 3 boat rides and 2 bus rides and I forget what else. Going to try to take it easy tomorrow.

South of the South Tour Day 1: Queenstown to Te Anau

Alternative Title: Quest for water

My bags are overstuffed as  I am unsure of the availability of water for the first 50 km. I decided to prehydrate.

"Of course you'd order a short black. Cyclists always order short blacks." He makes a pretty good espresso for someone who doesn't like making espresso. This place is like a barbershop. 

I was supposed to be boarding the TSS Earnslaw for a trip across the lake to Walters Peak Country Farm. 

That sailing is cancelled and I am instead allowed on the much smallér staff boat. There must be 50 people on the smaller boat and as far as I can tell, I am the only tourist.

I set off on the beginning of a long gravel ride. Everywhere is beautiful.

Where the road is in good shape, or looks like this.

Cows, sheep, and horses are my only company.

Where the road is in bad shape, it is underwater. I consider putting my waterproof socks on to ride through. That seems like a timewaster. I ride through and soak both feet.

The next crossing is even deeper. I walk through, again without waterproof socks. It is shockingly cold and the rear of my bike starts to drift away. Some all knowing cows stare at the stupid human and his bicycle.

I encounter 3 cyclists heading the other direction at Mavora Lakes. This is 50 km from where I got off the boat and where most people doing this trail stop for the night. I assume there will be drinkable water here. There is not. I brought 4 bottles and have 1 and a half left. 

I ride another 20 km and reach a junction. I hope there is something in Burwood, because I cannot pedal 45 more km with no water.

96 km in and I reach a sealed road. I'm getting ready to knock on the next door I see (there have been no doors for 100 km) when a "Cafe 500 m on left" sign comes into view. It's more of a coffee truck than a cafe and the woman inside says she has just closed, but I can buy cookies and drinks. She offers tap water from the hose but a couple of bottles of water seem safer. I drink one in seconds. I'm 20+ km from Te Anau and feeling good. 

Soon I am somehow out of water again. I am not worried. Only 10 km more.

First flat tire. My fingers are cold and there are bags in the way. 15 minutes later I'm on my way and so, so thirsty.

Flat white #4(?) and carrot cake and lots of water and I'm feeling better. I check into my hotel (which I spent way too little on), take a shower, and meet some Mauiians for dinner. I look crazy goofy after 9 hours of gravel roads. I feel a helmet strap on my chin and everything is vibrating.

Strava says 80 miles and 2732 feet.

Long Winding Road Back to Queenstown

I've been looking forward to coffee and scones at the hotel, but if they still serve them, they are not ready at 7:30 when breakfast starts.

I am able to achieve maximum efficiency when repacking. This was only an overnight trip, but my bags have never looked better. 

I begin up the hill. I always remember how difficult the climbs were and I always think they will be easier this time. I am well rested, I am starting half way up and I am in super shape. I get a tail wind up the steep part and I make the summit without stopping. 

I am dreading the descent. I should have replaced brake pads yesterday. I stop at a turn out 2.5 km down when I smell something burning and hope it's not my pads. I let them cool and then discover the steep part is over. I had planned on riding on the road to Arrowtown and then Queenstown as I'll get enough gravel tomorrow. But the road is busy so when my Garmin directs me onto a gravel road that I remember from the last trip I take its advice. I soon get to a trail closed sign. I'm in New Zealand and most laws are just suggestions. A couple of runners emerge and I ask if the trail is actually open. They tell me the sign is for 4x4 vehicles. In case the sign is too small, it reads "No pedestrian access".

Much of the trail is washed out and I have no traction on the loose rocks so I walk a couple hundred meters down hill. I follow the trails to Arrowtown and stop at a 4th wave coffee place. The barista is setting up cups with hand shaved coffee and then pouring water in circles with his douchebag pour over kettle. There is no filter so I ask if he's going to filter after steeping, otherwise it's cowboy coffee. He looks at me with disdain. "Filter? I am going to scrape." I am not there long enough to see the scraping tool. I believe my cup took 7 hours to brew. 

Before leaving, I look for a job. And then buy a pie on loan from heaven.

I bike with a couple of E-bikers from Seattle for a few km on my way to Queenstown. I come across 3 bikers who look like real cyclists. They're on muddy gravel bikes, but we're on a paved section. I have 25 extra pounds on the bike and I pass them going down hill and they seem a little offended. I either spend  a couple of hours riding around in circles on the vast network of Queenstown area bike trails or I go exactly the correct way and it's just a really long ride. Should have stuck to the road. 

I check into my hotel (again). They're not as nice when you arrive to check in on a bike vs. being the guy who's already checked in and goes out for bike rides. They don't want to let me roll my bike into the room. But this is New Zealand. Laws are just suggestions. 

I eat a leftover pie from heaven, pack up my dirty clothes and catch the water taxi. I attempt to do laundry at the closest laundromat [Read: near my bar so I can have a pint while I wait]. It's attached to a hostel and reception is supposed to have change. I see a bit of an altercation in the lobby and surmise this will take a while. I had a problem at this laundromat two years ago--the dryers weren't working and I had to walk to the next closest laundromat with wet clothes. I walk to the next closest laundromat, which is next to the library. I catch up on blogging on a real computer! 

I take a walk through Queenstown gardens. I've biked through a few times, but this is my first stroll in well over 10 years.

I find myself parched and remember that they have water on tap at my regular. The staff has changed so they don't think I'm a beer groupie.

Strava says 35 miles and 2921 feet. Big day tomorrow. I shouldn't have too many more of these.

Cromwell, Wanaka, and then some

Goals for today: see the town of Cromwell and sleep at the Cardrona Hotel.

Cromwell comes up in my Queenstown/Wanaka real estate hunting sometimes when I'm bored at work. It's substantially cheaper, on a lake, surrounded by wineries...seemed like a good place for my future southern hemisphere base. Unfortunately, the bike trail between Queenstown and Cromwell that I thought existed when I started planning this trip won't be complete until February. Two cycling Kiwi friends recommended I not ride on the highway, though the crazier one reconsidered when I gave her my itinerary, but I don't speak Kiwi very well so maybe she was putting me on.

Fortunately there's a bus for that. The website said I'd have to remove pedals, remove wheels, cover the chain, and turn the handlebars. I assumed this would be unnecessary (and it was) but with all the bags, it might have been a 15 minute job.

I tried to take some photos of the bike path that will soon be open, but I was on the wrong side of the bus and none of them came out. It appears to be a monstrously difficult trail. I arrive in the center of a cold deserted Cromwell. I bike around to Historic Cromwell or whatever they call it. Fun fact, the old town was flooded when they dammed the lake. These buildings were relocated. I'm hungry and as usual have had no coffee and these places aren't open yet. I head back to the bus stop for flat white #3 and scone #1. I think scones have gone out of style. I haven't seen them anywhere.

I bike through a new housing development to see a house that's been taunting me for over a year. It is surrounded by blocks and blocks of new homes and homes under construction. There are walking and bike paths everywhere but no people.

I get quite lost which is surprising considering Cromwell is not big. The lake is not visible from anywhere unless you're right in front of it. Cromwell has almost none of Wanaka's/Queenstown's beauty. 

I manage to find my way back to the historic district after clocking 10+ km in suburbia. The Lake Dunstan trail map indicates I can ride 16 km toward Wanaka without getting on the highway. Neither Google maps or my Garmin know anything about this trail.

I decide to reset my Garmin and call this the start of today's ride. 

Lake Dunstan just isn't as pretty as it's neighbor lakes. As it's manmade, there are a lot of inlets that I later discover add 5 km to my ride. 

Pisa Moorings, built on a few of these inlets is definitely making an effort on their section of lake. There's a sign that it's a predator free zone. It's either a vacation or retirement community. It feels stepfordy and the only people I see are white haired old men spraying their gardens with something.

The trail ends and I must move to the highway. It is more boring than anything else. There's a cold headwind and the shoulder is often wheel width. I get assaulted by magpies. I can't remember what I'm supposed to do besides putting fake eyes on the back of my helmet and I don't have any of those. I tuck in and speed up while they yell at me for what feels like 10 km but was probably a couple hundred meters.

I run out of water. There is nothing around until I approach a sign for the Nanny Goat Winery. I figure they'll either give me water or worse case I can buy a bottle of 88% water. Their sign says 1700 meters. I don't know if they're open and it's probably up hill. I only have 20 km to Wanaka so I press on without water.

I eventually reach Luggate and stop and whatever this place is called. I buy a bottle of water and see they have pies. They're out of most of them and I should not have selected the smash burger. It was worse than it sounds. I eat half of it and regret taking this photo because now I cannot easily wipe it from my memory.

Wanaka feels quiet after a few days in Queenstown. I had plans to visit a Wanaka brewery or two, but I see they're all a mile up the hill I just came down. I take my picture with some public art and settle for a pizza parlour in a brew pub. I have a view of the bicycle which I'm too tired to remove anything valuable from.

Cardrona is 25 km up hill. I can't remember how much climbing and the Internet is useless because no cyclist has ever stopped stopped on this road before reaching the summit. Google says mostly flat, but I already know Google lies. It turns out to only be 200 meters give or take.

My room is an old stable. I head to the bar.

I've been trying to stay here for 15 years, but the timing has never worked out.

The Garmin has finally synced. Main ride was 52.5 miles and 2474 feet of elevation. Let's call it 60 miles on the day plus another 50 km by bus.