Wifi, gannets, and other stuff.

Apologies for my absence of posting. It is difficult to find a wifi connection in New Zealand...or at least in Hawke's Bay. Fortunately, (after many hours of struggle) I found our modem (and after many more hours of struggle), set up a wifi network in our house. I'll post more about the house later. It feels gigantic, and we have rooms that we don't know what we're going to do with (I tried really hard to not end that sentence with a preposition). It is heated by two wood burning stoves, for which we have no wood, so it was a little cold last night. And I must quickly learn to accept insects (and spiders) as cohabitants, as there does not appear to be such a thing as screens in New Zealand.

Thought I'd try to catch everyone up on what we've been doing the last few days (besides buying appliances).

Last Sunday, we took a drive toward Cape Kidnappers, home of the world's largest mainland gannet colony. For the less athletic, there are two tour companies that will 1) take you by tractor to within 1km of the gannets or 2) take you by bus to within a few feet of the gannets. But since we don't all have $80 to throw around, the gannets are also walkable. [Note to those from the USA: In New Zealand, when a government sign says: "Allow 5 hours for round trip", do not go thinking: "I'm in good shape, I'll finish in 4 hours." This is important to remember when visiting the gannets because your entire walk will be on a beach that is not there at high tide--you leave 3 hours after high tide, walk for 2 and a half hours, look at the gannets, then hurry back so that you will make it to your car 3 hours before high tide. Even then, you will find yourself walking in a foot of water at least once.]

[One more quick note. Beaches (below the high tide line) in New Zealand are considered streets, so a 4th option would be to drive. There were a few people doing this in SUVs of various sizes and conditions, and several people making the trip on ATVs and off road motorcycles.]

But I digress, the walk is absolutely stunning.



On the walk, you actually get to see 3 colonies of gannets.

The largest is probably the least impressive, except that you can get within a few feet of the birds; in fact, there's a rope that designates where the humans are allowed to stand, and where the gannets are allowed to stand.


Looking back through my pictures, it looks like we were at Waipatiki Beach the day before. The beach is nothing special, though somewhat secluded.

The small town around the beach is rather neat to take a stroll through; there is not much here, just some houses and a holiday park.

Like everywhere in New Zealand (including our backyard), there's a reserve nearby. I believe these are native plants.

And like everything else in New Zealand, you usually have to work (climb) for the good views.

Flat white count currently at six.

I had been averaging a flat white a day until I started work. As is customary in NZ, my employer supplies tea (and coffee)...the coffee appears to be of the instant variety, though some prepare it by running it through a french press, so it may well not be instant. At any rate, I had switched to tea, as that seemed like the proper thing to be drinking during tea time. I've been drinking a whole lot of tea. A cup before work (if I get there early enough), a cup at tea time, a cup at lunch, a cup at tea time #2., a cup with Nico after work if she's making it...

As those of you who know me are probably aware, I am a bit of a coffee connoisseur. And although I like drinking tea, I know very little about it. I assumed the tea provided at work was not of a particularly high quality; today my Irish colleague (who drinks more team than do I) remarked that the tea here is shit (or do the Irish say shite?). At some point in the future, I'll have to do a post on Kiwi obscenities (or lack thereof, as “shit” does not seem to be one). This started a discussion about Nico's obsession with purchasing an electric kettle...but I'll save that for another post, as well.

Enough digressions, I suppose. I started typing about coffee because I am now in a coffee pool. I have a standing order for a (discounted) flat white to be delivered every Friday morning. I made the mistake of ordering a large today which very likely had four shots of espresso in it. Hopefully this explains why today's entry has become so long and boring. I think I have also joined a weekly lottery pool, but I was in a caffeine daze, so I'm not really sure what I agreed to..

Sorry if my entries become a little less frequent for the next week. We've moved to temporary residence #2. I had called it a bach previously...it's more like a bed and breakfast (only without the breakfast)...just in a little neighborhood a short stroll from the Napier CBD. There are chickens just behind our bedroom. Very Kiwi.

Must end this post now. We've been invited to a barbecue. We're supposed to bring whatever we want to drink and something for the barbie. Nicole and I are in disagreement about what this means.

Take hamburgers. Here, hamburguesas are really bad.
It's known that Americans like hamburgers, so again, we're idiots.
But they have no idea how delicious hamburgers can be.
It's this ideal burger of memory we crave...not the disgusting burgers you get abroad.

Dinner at Burger Wisconsin tonight. Hamburgers are better in New Zealand than in Spain...or at least I think they are; I haven't actually been to Spain, but I imagine they're not very good. Still, I can say without a doubt, Burger Wisconsin is not the home of the world's best burgers. (Or if they do live there, they are hiding, and are not available for eating.) I am hopeful that Burger Wisconsin is not the home of New Zealand's best burgers. If anyone wants to open an In-N-Out here, you would make a killing.

On the way home, I decided I am never going to be able to do a Kiwi accent; to tell you the truth, I can't even recognize one yet. I can however, do a reasonable Irish accent; throw in the red hair, and it might be believable.

Driftwood and black sand beaches

The beach closest the Napier CBD is thought to be one of the worst in New Zealand by the locals. And depending on what one is looking for in a beach, it quite possibly is. There is no sand, there is a sharp drop off once you put your feet in the water, and there are strong currents that suck entire families (of tourists) out to sea. There are probably sharks, also.

I actually have not verified anything except for the lack of sand. Instead, the beach is covered with black rocks that get progressively smaller the closer you get to the water. The lack of sand is sort of nice, in that these rocks do not stick to your feet. However, at least to my American feet (which are not used to going barefoot), it got a little painful playing frisbee with Nico after a few minutes.

A couple of pictures of the beach; I believe that's Cape Kidnappers off in the distance:



And a picture of Hastings Street (one of the main drags in Napier):


In other news, I am apparently the only early riser in New Zealand, and will be working 7:30 to 4:00 starting tomorrow. As I'm used to working 7:30 to 5:30, this leaves a lot of daylight at the end of the day.

Looks like we're going to be homeless until March 15th.

We're getting kicked out of our hotel this Friday, so we'll be moving to a bach for 10 days.

After that, you are all welcome to come and visit.

Note to prospective visitors:

1) If you want a ride to or from the airport: Fly into Napier. We are a 5 hour drive from Auckland; unless you're my mother, I am not driving 10 hours to pick you up.

2) We are but poor Kiwi folk. Take us out to dinner, or we'll be eating corn...until corn is out of season, then maybe we'll be eating potatoes.

3) Something about fresh fish and house guests; seriously, there's quite a bit to do in Hawke's Bay, but unless you're spending 3 or 4 weeks in New Zealand, you will probably not want to spend more than 3 days here.

Chicken with a view.

Alternative title was: I'd like to know what a five-dollar shake tastes like.

First day at work. Felt like any other first day of work in a hospital, with the exception of nearly every drug having some other name...and my reference books are in a container, or possibly in storage, so I'll have to fake it for a little while longer.

Dinner in Ahuriri at the Hot Chick. So far, the best restaurant I've eaten at in Hawke's Bay; well, if not the best restaurant, at least the one I enjoyed the most. Sorry I have no photos to post tonight; please believe me when I tell you: The view from our table is unrivaled in California...and the deep fried banana was exquisite.

For dessert: My first NZ thick shake. I'm not quite sure what a thick shake is, except that one cost more than a milk shake. Extra thick shakes are even more expensive than thick shakes. Mine was not terribly thick, and I was left a bit disappointed...next time I'll spring for the extra thick shake.

Drive my car into the ocean

For those of you who might have been worried about us, if a Tsunami hit Napier, it was not much noticed by us locals. Apparently three cruise ships stayed out at sea, which left plenty of room for our picnic in front of the Bay Cities' Symphonic Band. The bandstand is right on the beach, though it appears to be a few feet above sea level. I'm told downtown Napier is below sea level.


Nico and I used to drive around during Hurricane warnings in Indianapolis, so what could be better than a trip to Ocean Beach (which is supposed to be amongst Hawke's Bay's finest) during a Tsunami warning. We made it most of the 30k through beautiful rolling pastures and vineyards, but were turned away by a closed road near the end of the trip.

A little exploring led us to Te Mata Peak, where crazy people were jumping off a mountain.


Back in Napier, we took a look at the local sailing scene.

Homeless, homeless
Moonlight sleeping on a midnight lake

I have been having trouble taking a photograph that accurately captures Napier. I'm guessing I need a wider lens, or perhaps I just need more practice with the lens I have. Here's a typical street in the Central Business District (CBD).


This is a downtown Napier beach. The bike path goes on forever.



And here's Nico at the Warehouse. The Warehouse is best described as a combination of Walmart and Big Lots. Still, like most of New Zealand, it's enough like the US to be livable. Look at all those toothbrushes.


On to the important stuff. It appears we've found a home to let, though we won't know until Monday when the current tenant will be vacating. It's in the town of Havelock North, which we had not considered before arriving in NZ because it is 10 clicks from the water. However, after driving around Hawke's Bay for a few hours, we both agreed it is one of the nicest cities we've seen in NZ. Also, there are not a lot of other options available for rent at the moment.

When you're alone, and life is making you lonely, you can always go...

Three days in country today. A brief update for those of you who are keeping score.

Here's the car we bought in Auckland. It's a 2004 Subaru Forester LL Bean. We are the first NZ owners, which means the last person to own it was Japanese. He put a bit of work into it, including a fairly high end TV/DVD/Navigator/Back up cam/who knows what else. Unfortunately, the thing only speaks Japanese, so it is not of much use for us.


During our two days in Auckland, we happened upon what's left of the original cemetary. Nico did not think this was even a little funny, and got mad at me for taking the picture.


And a quick stop at the Auckland zoo. I do not quite get the kiwi sense of humour. Tortoises however, are the same all over.

Things accomplished (so far) on day one in New Zealand:
1) Cleared immigration/customs
2) Checked tandem at airport because it was unlikely to fit in rental car
3) Bought cell phone (actually just a sim card for an old cell phone)
4) Rented car
5) Dropped luggage off at hotel
6) Opened bank account
7) Won Car!!! (okay, it was at an auction)
8) Returned rental car
9) Picked up tandem at airport
10) Checked into hotel
11) Found Justice of the Peace to witness pharmacist application
12) Mailed pharmacist application via overnight courier to Pharmacy Council
13) Enjoyed a Mac's Gold.

Dinner with our Kiwi friends tonight; taking tomorrow off

Kiwi Mike is far more productive than USA Mike